The Grey Skies of Lima

It was somewhat anti-climatic to arrive in Lima (via a late night bus from Nazca) after three weeks of traveling around Peru. For one, you come to a realization that the holiday is nearly over. Second, while the rest of the country is colorful and vibrant, Lima is decidedly grey. They did not write poems about its grey skies for no reason. It is gloomy for the most part of the year, we were told. The three days that we were there was no exception.

But this didn't stop us from exploring the city. There are ruins and parks around Milaflores which is the tourist/financial district. Barranco is the hip restaurant/club area which needs to be visited on weekends. Central Lima is where Plaza Mayor is, which means this is the religious and political center of the city, if not the country. There is enough churches and monasteries to visit, in case you have not had your fill.

It is easy to follow the well-worn path of tourists in this sprawling city, but here are the interesting finds: Museo de Inquisition gives you a take on this dark part of Spanish colonial history that did not spare Peru. It is free and an insightful guide takes you around the exhibits that include the court chamber, prison cells and modes of torture and death. Nearby is a monastery that has a french restaurant ran by nuns, L'Eau Vive, which is your best bet for fine dining (and maybe star gazing) in the city.

The anywhere-in-the-world-type of mall, Larcomar, boasts of great views of the Ocean and is right next to it, which makes going there forgivable. If you must, this is also where you can find Starbucks, KFC, Burger King, Pizza Hut and everything else that is birthed 6 hours away in American soil.

My personal favorite is the small, easily missed, Parque del Amor. What can I say? The name says it all. It has Gaudi-esque park benches with mosaic and carvings of quotes and names of famous lovers. Apparently, it is a tribute to the time-honored Peruvian tradition of courtship in the park.

In the middle of the park stands a larger than life sculpture of Victor Delfin, "El Beso." It is a man and woman engaged in passionate kiss done in clay.

I like the movement of the sculpture as well as its texture. The color, however, did not seem to take into account the dark background of the clouds. I am sure it would look good on blue.

But perhaps that's what it is meant to be.

A spark under the grey skies of Lima, two people oblivious to the omen of the color above, just locked in a moment. Abandon and affection, just as art should be ;-)