Hiking in the Amazon Rainforest with My Twin

On our first day in Peru, loaded with the infamous COCA tea, we boarded an early morning flight to Puerto Maldonado where our Amazon rainforest adventure begins.

We were picked up from the typical 'one-horse town' airport by our efficient and congenial hosts. They took us to a kiosk where twelve odd tourists were assembled. We were asked to pack for 4 days and leave the rest of our baggage behind. (Sir? Excuse me, what do you mean leave the baggage behind? Oh, take only what I can carry on the trail? Gotcha.) Quickly, as everyone was waiting on us, I stashed a few shirts, shorts, socks and underwear into my back pack and the survival kit of sunscreen and insect repellent- the smell of a true holiday.

Our hiking guide asked us to choose our pair of mud boots. (How nice, but I think I am okay with my own hiking shoes. Really.) Got on a boat and began our journey on the Rio Madre de Dios. It connects to the Amazon and in three days, we can reach Bolivia. But for today, our destination is Lake Sandoval where our rainforest lodge awaits. Lunch was served on board in palm leaves (and other eco-friendly material that will bring tears to Al Gore`s eyes).

We checked-in with the rainforest ranger, or something, and then was asked to put on the mud boots. (They are really pushing the issue on the mud boots.) So the hike began. It would take under an hour, we were told. And as we get into the thick of the forest, it quickly became very apparent why we NEEDED the mud boots. (The mud is higher than my boots! I should have tried the adult-size ones.) The generous shade of the rainforest, rain from two days ago and 97% humidity made sure that the 4Km road to the Lake is in slippery, mushy and gooey mud nearly all the way. (I bet Harrison Ford had a double for this type of scene. Or maybe his crew lined it up with wooden planks, that whooz!)

I plod along the trail, holding on to trees and shrubs to prevent a fall or slip, sometimes trusting my whole body weight on a branch. I am admiring how quiet it is apart from the ocassional animal sound, and the calm even eerie feel the primary forest inspires. (I have not seen so much mud in my life! My feet are at least 2lbs heavier. I so do not want to slip! I am not ready for a Peruvian facial mask.) Alas, we arrived on a narrow stretch where a small boat awaits, it ferryied us through a short canal that led to the Lake.

We arrived at the lodge which is simple and cozy. There were hammocks up front, a small games and bar area, some lounge chairs and large dining hall. We were told the electricity is rationed. (That answers the hair dryer question.) It has been a long day and our hiking guide gave us time to shower (Cold, of course) and rest before our night time hike.

We reconvened after sun set, armed with flashlights and reeking in insect repellent, we followed our fearless leader in search for tarantulas, giant mosquitoes, termites and other bugs. (Seriously, are we hiking just to see some insects? The same ones we are trying to repel with a gallon of OFF spray?) Convinced that insects sustains the eco-system in their own special way, we went back to the lodge. Lights out at 10pm and first hike tomorrow morning at 5:30am. To bed at last. (Yikes! This bed is so damp, it seems like someone else has slept on it, smells like it, too. And I have just taken a shower!)

We piled on a boat the next day before sunrise, with our guide as zealous as a Crocodile Dundee looking for crocs, but in our case, the king of the Lake are the giant otters. More hike we saw squirrel monkeys and other animals. Then again, we had an outing just to see killer trees. (A.k.a. "The Blair Witch Project- The Reenactment") One morning at 5:00am we even took a trip back to the mud trail to see macaws. (I can't believe I woke up at 4:00am so I can go back to the mud trail to see birds that look like a domesticated parrot!) At night, we watched the sunset on a boat while looking for caimans. (Yep, those 'gator-like reptiles floating about, hopefully they don't mind us poking around with our flashlights.)

After five days, it was time to go back to civilization. We took the same fateful mud trail back to the River. (I guess my entry on the 'suggestion box' that they build a bridge from the River, did not make it in time for our departure.) We saw a lot of hikers on their way in, they are looking at our state, with some warranted apprehension. We look every bit the part of an extra in an Indiana Jones film... ready to board a flight to Cuzco... on to more hiking.